2016 summer suit style: double breasted
Twice every year, LGFG clothiers go to our production shop in Europe where we learn a plethora of new and classic information about the tailoring word: technology, pattern making, client service skills etc. With our semi-annual tailoring training upcoming, one of the subjects will be newest trends in the tailoring scene, because from business events to glamorous parties, there have been plenty of opportunities for men to show their style. The fashionable crowd that attends fashion weeks and film festivals have shown us the top suit style for the summer of 2016, and double-breasted suits have been everywhere. A double breasted suit is just about the easiest way to show off a bit while still looking classic, masculine and, as we like to say… baller (when done right, that is).
Fashion crowds are currently obsessed with the double breasted suit. You’ll find it in most classic menswear brand collections and on the fashion magazine pages. Men’s iconic magazine GQ writes about the suit and highly recommends men to work with a tailor to get the fit just right. But wait… how do you get it right? Let’s learn some of the basics.
The double breasted suit is actually not that much more difficult than a single breasted one – take everything you know about the single breasted suit and you can pretty much apply it here. The shoulders are possibly the most important part of the jacket; the seams should correspond with your natural shape. The collar should rest against your shirt collar, with no gaps or bunching when you turn to the side. And the pitch of the sleeves needs to correspond with your natural stance so the fabric doesn’t twist or wrinkle in odd ways. Of course, if you have a great tailor (s)he already knows all these things leaving you to mind your own business while (s)he does his/hers. LGFG clothiers are especially trained in this area, as from July 4th-6th they are all in training in Europe with our master tailoring team- in person- learning the newest and of course the classic techniques in pattern making in order to achieve the perfect fit.
LGFG Fashion House executive clothier Julian Burreci shows how its done.
Though there is one thing that you should think before opting for double breasted suit. They have peak lapels which makes your chest look wider and create an hourglass shape. Men who already have very wide shoulders should keep in mind that this type of suit will make them look more intimidating. Back in the day these lapels were ultra-wide but some modern versions are more understated so its not a total taboo for a wide shouldered men anymore. For this reason, LGFG Clothiers are trained in this style, and know that the slimmer lapels are a safe play with a client of this shape, and they will take care of those details for you, so that you have nothing to worry about. We can also tell you that the overall trend for double breasted suits is such that today’s versions are overall slimmer because the point isn’t intimidation. The modern versions are simply more flattering and wearable. If the stomach area of the jacket is cut slim instead of looking like a square, it’ll also help you shave off a couple of pounds. Just make sure the jacket doesn’t pull when buttoned and that the lapels lay flat because truth is that when it comes to fit, too tight is just as unflattering as too big.
So what about the buttons? A classic double breasted suit has six or eight buttons. The untraditional ones could also have just two or four. Two or four buttons on a jacket looks more flattering if you’re on the shorter side. But keep in mind that no matter how many buttons your jacket has, always leave the bottom unfastened. Just that on double breasted suit bottom interior button should be buttoned so the jacket stays closed and lays flat. Double breasted jackets look better when they are bottomed, and we don’t advise wearing them opened like you would a single breasted suit.
And finally: a double breasted jacket is a true classic that has made a huge comeback lately. It is very posh and you’ll definitely feel like a gentleman while wearing it. And the good thing about the double breasted jacket is that it doesn’t always need to be worn as a suit. Wear a bright and bold jacket with a pair of cream coloured chinos or with wool slacks and make a sportcoat out of your jacket. With a double breasted jacket this is totally acceptable and even a little…baller.
To learn more about this style, contact your LGFG Clothier – www.lgfgfashionhouse.com
