Blog – Page 13 – LGFG Fashion House

2016 summer suit style: double breasted

Twice every year, LGFG clothiers go to our production shop in Europe where we learn a plethora of new and classic information about the tailoring word: technology, pattern making, client service skills etc. With our semi-annual tailoring training upcoming, one of the subjects will be newest trends in the tailoring scene, because from business events to glamorous parties, there have been plenty of opportunities for men to show their style. The fashionable crowd that attends fashion weeks and film festivals have shown us the top suit style for the summer of 2016, and double-breasted suits have been everywhere. A double breasted suit is just about the easiest way to show off a bit while still looking classic, masculine and, as we like to say… baller (when done right, that is).

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Fashion crowds are currently obsessed with the double breasted suit. You’ll find it in most classic menswear brand collections and on the fashion magazine pages. Men’s iconic magazine GQ writes about the suit and highly recommends men to work with a tailor to get the fit just right. But wait… how do you get it right? Let’s learn some of the basics.

The double breasted suit is actually not that much more difficult than a single breasted one – take everything you know about the single breasted suit and you can pretty much apply it here. The shoulders are possibly the most important part of the jacket; the seams should correspond with your natural shape. The collar should rest against your shirt collar, with no gaps or bunching when you turn to the side. And the pitch of the sleeves needs to correspond with your natural stance so the fabric doesn’t twist or wrinkle in odd ways. Of course, if you have a great tailor (s)he already knows all these things leaving you to mind your own business while (s)he does his/hers. LGFG clothiers are especially trained in this area, as from July 4th-6th they are all in training in Europe with our master tailoring team- in person- learning the newest and of course the classic techniques in pattern making in order to achieve the perfect fit.

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LGFG Fashion House executive clothier Julian Burreci shows how its done.

Though there is one thing that you should think before opting for double breasted suit. They have peak lapels which makes your chest look wider and create an hourglass shape. Men who already have very wide shoulders should keep in mind that this type of suit will make them look more intimidating. Back in the day these lapels were ultra-wide but some modern versions are more understated so its not a total taboo for a wide shouldered men anymore. For this reason, LGFG Clothiers are trained in this style, and know that the slimmer lapels are a safe play with a client of this shape, and they will take care of those details for you, so that you have nothing to worry about. We can also tell you that the overall trend for double breasted suits is such that today’s versions are overall slimmer because the point isn’t intimidation. The modern versions are simply more flattering and wearable. If the stomach area of the jacket is cut slim instead of looking like a square, it’ll also help you shave off a couple of pounds. Just make sure the jacket doesn’t pull when buttoned and that the lapels lay flat because truth is that when it comes to fit, too tight is just as unflattering as too big.

So what about the buttons? A classic double breasted suit has six or eight buttons. The untraditional ones could also have just two or four. Two or four buttons on a jacket looks more flattering if you’re on the shorter side. But keep in mind that no matter how many buttons your jacket has, always leave the bottom unfastened. Just that on double breasted suit bottom interior button should be buttoned so the jacket stays closed and lays flat. Double breasted jackets look better when they are bottomed, and we don’t advise wearing them opened like you would a single breasted suit.

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And finally: a double breasted jacket is a true classic that has made a huge comeback lately. It is very posh and you’ll definitely feel like a gentleman while wearing it. And the good thing about the double breasted jacket is that it doesn’t always need to be worn as a suit. Wear a bright and bold jacket with a pair of cream coloured chinos or with wool slacks and make a sportcoat out of your jacket. With a double breasted jacket this is totally acceptable and even a little…baller.

To learn more about this style, contact your LGFG Clothier – www.lgfgfashionhouse.com

How to Fold a Pocket Square

As we have mentioned before there is one little thing that adds extra style points to your suit. Yes – we are talking about pocket squares again. We have already written a blog post about pocket squares and the rules on how and where to wear them. But there is one little thing we haven’t written – how exactly to fold a pocket square correctly…

There are many ways to fold a pocket square. So we start our step-by-step tutorial from the easiest and then we will also show you the more complicated. What we recommend you to do is save this article or bookmark this page so it would come in handy anytime needed.

1. “The Square Fold” 

The pocket square at its most basic. Use it when you want maximum formality and understated elegance.

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Step 1. Lay your pocket square unfolded and flat with the two top corners horizontal.

Step 2. Fold the the square to the width of your jacket pocket.

Step 3. Fold the bottom to form a finished rectangle the same width as your pocket, and about half an inch longer.

Step 4. Tuck the folded-up bottom edge into your jacket pocket and snug it down to the base.

2. “The One Point Fold”

Simple enough to be business-appropriate. But could be worn with a relaxed, casual blazer too.

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Step 1. Begin with the square fully unfolded and flat.

Step 2. Fold the square diagonally down in the middle, bringing one corner up to meet the opposite corner. This should leave you with a wide triangle of doubled-over fabric.

Step 3. At the base of the triangle, where you folded the square in half, fold the doubled-over corners inward from both sides.

Step 4. Slide the folded bottom edge into your jacket’s breast pocket and tuck it all the way down, hiding the rectangular edges. The only thing remaining visible should be the triangle, centred in the pocket and pointing straight up.

3. “The Two-Point Fold”

A dressy style which is popular among business professionals.

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Step 1. Begin with the square fully unfolded and flat.

Step 2. Fold the square diagonally down in the middle, bringing one corner across to meet the opposite corner. Angle the fold very slightly off-centre, so that one corner lies just to the left of the other. The two offset corners will be the two visible points to the fold.

Step 3. At the base of the triangle, where you folded the square in half, fold the doubled-over corners inward from both sides. Try to fold each corner roughly the same amount, so that the remaining diagonals are the same length.

Step 4. At this point the bottom of the folded square should be rectangle and the rough size of your jacket’s breast pocket. Tuck the flat bottom of the fold into your pocket and snug it all the way down until the vertical edges are completely hidden. The only thing visible should be the two slightly offset triangular points.

4. “The Three-Point Fold”

To make more than one or two points line up, it probably will take some practice. This is rather fancy style and it will need your whole look to be pretty dapper!

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Step 1. Begin with the square fully unfolded and flat.

Step 2. Fold the square diagonally down the middle, bringing one corner across to meet the opposite corner. Angle the fold very slightly off-centre, so that one corner lies just to the left of the other. The two offset corners will be two of the three visible points of the fold, so adjust them to the desired gap.

Step 3. Bring the bottom left corner diagonally up at an angle so that it joins the two points already at the top of the fold. Position it so that you have three points side by side, as evenly spaced and similar in size as possible.

Step 4. Fold the bottom right corner inward, flat across the bottom, as far as needed to make the complete fold roughly the width of your jacket’s breast pocket.

Step 5. The finished fold will not be symmetrical. You should have a flat bottom, angled sides, and thee triangular points at the top. Tuck the bottom edge down into the jacket’s breast pocket. Leave the three points visible, with the rest of the square hidden.

5. “The Four-Point Fold”

This one is a bit easier to keep neat and even than the three-point fold, since all the folding is symmetrical.

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Step 1. Begin with the square fully unfolded and flat.

Step 2. Fold the square diagonally down the middle, bringing one corner across to meet the opposite corner.

Step 3. Bring the bottom left corner diagonally up across the fold, finishing with the point of the corner to the right of the top two corners. All three should line up neatly, as close to even spacing and equal size as possible.

Step 4. Repeat the process with the bottom right corner, bringing it up and across so that it forms a final point to the left of the others. Adjust as needed to make all four points roughly the same size, with equal spacing between them.

Step 5. Tuck the long part into the jacket pocket and snug it down until only the four tips are visible. The outermost two should spread away from one another, framing the two center points.

6. “The Puff Fold”

It is not formal, but it is most certainly stylish.

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Step 1. Rather than laying the square flat, pinch it at the center and let the edges and corners hang down.

Step 2. Take a moment to adjust the hang of the fabric so that it is relatively even all around.

Step 3. Still pinching the center in one hand, use your other hand to tug gently on the dangling edges, pulling the pocket square into a loose tube shape.

Step 4. Very gently roll up from the bottom of the tube until the folded square is short enough to tuck into your jacket’s breast pocket, with just the dome formed by your pinching the center showing.

Step 5. Tuck the folded pocket square down until just the rounded top of the finished shape is visible.

7. “The Winged Puff Fold”

This is a hybrid style that blends the soft edges of a puff fold with the angles of a single point fold. It’s also quite compact, making it a good option for undersized pocket squares.

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Step 1. Begin with the square fully unfolded and flat.

Step 2. Fold the square diagonally down the middle, bringing one corner across to meet the opposite corner.

Step 3. Fold the corners inward and upward from each end of the long side, bringing them up to meet the point where the two opposite corners met.

Step 4. Fold the three corners that are not the winged top peak in to the center. You should finish with an “envelope” fold: squared off on three edges, with a triangular peak on the fourth. There will be a visible slit down the center of the triangular peak.

Step 5. Tuck the squared-off sides of the finished fold down into your jacket breast pocket, so that only the pointed peak with the split down its middle is visible. Use your fingers to gently tease the two “wings” of the peak slightly apart. It’s all right to let them take on a domed shape, like the puff fold.

8. “The Scallop Fold”

It looks good in glossy, colourful fabrics, and is not particularly formal. Suits best for weddings and other celebrations.

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Step 1. Begin with the square fully unfolded and flat.

Step 2. Fold the square diagonally down the middle, bringing one corner up to meet the opposite corner. This should leave you with a wide triangle of doubled-over fabric.

Step 3. Fold the triangle in half again, bringing the two corners at either end of the first fold together. This will form a smaller triangle.

Step 4. Lifting the square, gently curl one of the doubled corners in and downward. Don’t fold it or crease it — just bend it inward, at a bit of an angle.

Step 5. Repeat the process for the other corner. Curl it in and down, laying it atop the first corner you bent inward.

Step 6. Tuck the triangular point down into your pocket. Keep tucking the finished fold until only the tops of the curves you formed are visible. They should lay neatly one atop the other, forming a rounded, scalloped shape with all points and straight edges hidden. This is an organic shape, so it’s forgiving of some uneveness. Don’t worry if there’s a bit of separation between edges on the scalloped arms. As long as everything is proportional and you don’t have one corner popping out of the pocket, it’ll look fine.

9. “The Dunaway Fold”

This is the simplest way to make a slightly puffy, fringed shape with the edge of a pocket square. Depending on how stiff and how colorful your fabric is, it tends to look something like a flower or a bursting firecracker.

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Step 1. Rather than laying the square flat, pinch it at the center and let the edges and corners hang down.

Step 2. Take a moment to adjust the hang of the fabric so that it is relatively even all around.

Step 3. Still pinching the center in one hand, use your other hand to tug gently on the dangling edges, pulling the pocket square into a loose tube shape.

Step 4. Invert the tube shape and spread the loose edges out with your fingertips, making a roughly symmetrical spread of the corners. Fold the center of the square upward, stopping about halfway up the tube shape.

Step 5. Tuck the doubled-over tube into your jacket breast pocket so that only the splayed edges of the pocket square are visible. Adjust them with your fingers as needed. Perfect symmetry is not needed.

 

Meet LGFG executive clothier Julian Burreci

There are very many different characters working at LGFG Fashion House, all great in their own way! And as we promised, we will let you have a little sneak peak inside. In this post, you can get to know our great tailor Julian Burreci a little bit better.

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I found LGFG in the most unexpected of ways, at a Vipassana meditation retreat. I had met one of the sales guys there and eventually ended up joining because I saw how awesome the company was. I grew up in Toronto and went to high school in Niagara, studied Acting and eventually went into studying Traditional Chinese Medicine as I have a serious passion about health, wellness and alternative medicine. The reason I acquired the mindset I have is because I began meditating at 21 years old, at a really low point in my life, and through the experiences that I attained as I practised I began to see things in a new light. LGFG is the greatest thing that has happened to me thus far, it has helped me grow in ways I never thought possible in the short 2 years I’ve been here. This company operates on leadership principles, we are interested not only in growing sales, but also people. We will take a good attitude over a top producer that lacks one any day and that is a really indicative quality to me of a correctly run organization with an amazing culture. To talk a bit about my spare time, I love to meditate, practise dance, Qi Gong, Tai chi, DJ and research new and interesting subjects (I have a mind that is hungry for knowledge and growth!)

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I love what I do and it’s amazing and extremely rewarding to add value to busy executives lives, I am extremely passionate about mens fashion and my dream suit is a Dormeuil double breasted light grey suit with fancy blue checks. My personal style is novelty, I love to wear interesting and “off beat” ties, bowties and accessories to really pull my outfit together and create a unique self expression. From flamingo linings to comic strip bowties I love to make my look pop with something that ties into some aspect of eclectic nostalgia. I love working in this industry because I am passionate about dressing well and that passion directly translates over to my clients. To be a great tailor it is important to be an incredible listener. A great fitting suit is as unique as a personality, and the preference for fit varies incredibly. Listen, observe and build a connection and you will nail a great fitting suit every time!

 

Interview with LGFG market leader

LGFG Fashion House market leader Katrin Kiviselg gave an exclusive interview about the culture of our company which is soon-to-be the market leader of bespoke clothing brands. We will give you a little sneak peek:

From paperboy to president, garage shop to worldwide technological miracle, one-person start-up to a multimillion dollar company… How do people do it? The story of LGFG Fashion House follows the last path, soon-to-be market leader of bespoke clothing brands of luxury suits, shirts and shoes.
Continue reading “Interview with LGFG market leader” »

How and when to wear a French cuff

We’ve all heard some form on an anecdote how women are luckier than men in fashion since they have a wide selection of formal clothes and styles whereas men only have suits and tuxedos. Men can only have a little variation through shirt colour and tie prints. But there is one style element that is often ignored – the cuff links, which replace buttons in holding a shirt’s cuffs sealed around a man’s wrists. French cuffs – much like pocket squares – are one of the more confusing sartorial subjects. Most fellows don’t know when they should or should’t wear them – let alone how they should be worn, or the subtle style points that make them work with an outfit. Yet, when else can a man wear a piece of jewellery that’s both functional and ornamental? Continue reading “How and when to wear a French cuff” »

Summertime favourites

The last blog post was about lining which is a very important part of the suit. And we will continue to write about fabrics. But this time about the actual fabrics of the suit. And we focus on the upcoming summer which (hopefully) brings us some hot summer breeze very soon. But before the heatwave actually hits us let’s just think what we’ll be wearing. The return of double-digit temperatures doesn’t necessarily mean stripping down. We will tell you the 4 most important natural fibres that will help you deflect sweat and stay cool (figuratively and literally).

Continue reading “Summertime favourites” »

It’s what’s inside that counts

What are the first things going through your mind when thinking about your next bespoke suit? Probably choosing the colour, or the fabrics? But something at least as important as the fabric, is lining. Lining – which inside the suit and tends to be the afterthought in choosing the suit,  is yet another important detail which makes your high class suit… well – high class.  Continue reading “It’s what’s inside that counts” »

How to do the spring accessorising right

Tailoring in winter is easy: wool, dark colours, done. Spring, on the other hand, hands us a bigger challenge. We are getting more light, more warmth and suddenly your winter wardrobe tends to look a bit too “funeral.” But because most of us aren’t Peacocks (and if you are and you’re reading this…I just learned something) then turning suddenly head-to-toe into florals might cause you a trip to your boss’ office. Or possibly a psych ward. So at the first sight of sun your wardrobe doesn’t have to have a colour explosion that shames the Dutch tulip industry. However, you also don’t have to mute your look entirely; with some adjustments you can make a subtle statement.  Continue reading “How to do the spring accessorising right” »

When to wear a 3-piece suit?

What situation would call for a three-piece suit instead of just trousers and a suit jacket? The quick answer is that there are very few occasions nowadays in which you need to wear a three-piece suit. But if you want to dress to the nines, if you want to look as formal as you can look without going into black tie, that’s when you can wear a three-piece suit (especially when you don’t own a double breasted jacket).

But you can also think of it for a black tie event – in which traditionally you would wear a three-piece, because you should have a waist covering.

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History Lesson: the vest or waistcoat was originally used by messengers who rode horses. They were outside all day riding on a horse in the wind and extra layers were needed. So, vests were developed. They initially started off as big pieces of cloth and eventually became their own type of garment, but it was meant to be worn under a jacket to add warmth. As an aside, vents on a jacket are also a carryover from horse riding days when a jacket needed to split over a saddle.

Vests eventually made their way into formal wear after they were used through multiple wars; men began to like it. In fact, they found that they could contrast the colors for different looks. Vests added a bit of style to the wardrobe without having to go out and purchase an entire new suit. Jackets were very expensive and vests – less expensive. Interestingly, today, vests are often more expensive and more difficult to manufacture than any other piece of formal wear, because skilled cutters for vests are becoming a rarer find.

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Now, how to wear a three-piece suit? It’s still of the most useful and versatile items a man can own. In the tailored goods category, it may in fact be the most useful. The added vest (that makes a two piece a three piece) allows for a few more combinations that are not possible with the more common two piece suit. Additionally there is the practical utility of the extra layer around the torso in that it can provide warmth, which can be ideal in cooler weather. Furthermore, going from formal to smart casual is just one step away by taking off the jacket. Simply put, you feel more held together in a three-piece. The vest gives you an added layer of confidence, an extra piece of amor to keep the world from taking you down.

And a fun fact for lawyers: Three-piece suits create that visual which makes you look more sophisticated, smart, and organized.  Use it to your advantage.